Xiang Lian Run Se (Ornamental Box for Enhancing Beauty) was compiled by the Ming Dynasty Confucian physician Hu Wenhuan around the year 1600. It is a specialized treatise on women’s beauty and health, covering hair care, skin whitening, facial complexion enhancement, anti-aging, dental aesthetics, lip care, hand beautification, and body fragrance. The book includes a total of 276 beauty prescriptions. Here are a few notable face-whitening and skin-nourishing remedies recorded in the book:
Face Wash – The Imperial Eight-White Powder from the Jin Dynasty
Ingredients:
White Clove (Bai Ding Xiang), White Silkworm (Bai Jiang Can), White Atractylodes (Bai Fu Zi), White Morning Glory Seeds (Bai Qian Niu), White Angelica (Bai Zhi), White Orchid (Bai Ji), White Tribulus (Bai Ji Li), White Poria (Bai Fu Ling).
Preparation and Usage:
Grind the above eight ingredients into a fine powder along with three peeled and deseeded soapberries (Zao Jiao) and a small amount of green beans. Use this mixture daily to wash the face in the morning.
It is said that this formula was used in the imperial palace during the reign of Emperor Zhangzong of the Jin Dynasty. It helps to whiten and moisturize the skin while effectively treating pigmentation, acne, dryness, and itchiness. Traditional Chinese medicine attributes facial dullness and hyperpigmentation to qi stagnation and blood stasis; thus, this remedy incorporates herbs that promote blood circulation and invigorate qi.
The ingredients, all of which begin with “white,” were chosen for their direct or indirect effects on skin whitening and nourishing:
- White Clove in this formula refers to sparrow feces (also known as Que Su), traditionally used to enhance vision and treat boils and abscesses.
- White Silkworm (Bai Jiang Can) is known for its anti-inflammatory and anti-convulsive properties. Shen Nong Ben Cao Jing states that it “eliminates black spots and improves complexion.” Modern research shows it contains amino acids, bioactive sericin, and vitamin E, which help nourish and rejuvenate the skin.
- White Atractylodes (Bai Fu Zi) has detoxifying and skin-brightening effects. Ancient texts mention its use for treating facial hyperpigmentation.
- White Angelica (Bai Zhi) is a famous skin-whitening herb. It is noted in Shen Nong Ben Cao Jing for its ability to “nourish the skin, enhance complexion, and serve as a cosmetic ingredient.”
- White Poria (Bai Fu Ling) helps drain dampness and strengthen the spleen. Historical records suggest it was used in beauty treatments to address facial acne and postpartum pigmentation.
- White Orchid (Bai Ji) moisturizes the skin and treats facial ulcers, while soapberry acts as a natural cleanser, akin to modern facial washes.
Facial Mask – The Supreme Beauty Red Jade Cream
Ingredients:
Equal parts Almond (Xing Ren), Talc (Hua Shi), and Calomel (Qing Fen).
Preparation and Usage:
Peel almonds and grind them into a fine powder, steam them, then mix with a small amount of Borneol (Long Nao) and Musk (She Xiang). Blend the mixture with egg white to form a paste. Apply it after washing the face every morning. After ten days, the skin will become as smooth and rosy as red jade.
- Almond (Xing Ren) has been used in beauty treatments since ancient times. Ben Cao Gang Mu describes it as a remedy for “eliminating parasites, treating various ulcers, and relieving facial inflammation.”
- Talc (Hua Shi) has cooling and astringent properties, making it effective for treating eczema and itchy skin.
- Calomel (Qing Fen) is a sublimated compound of mercury chloride. It has antibacterial and ulcer-healing properties but is toxic and should only be used under professional guidance.
- Borneol and musk are highly aromatic ingredients that promote circulation and enhance the skin’s radiance.
- Egg white not only helps blend the ingredients but also acts as a natural skin-tightening agent.
Exfoliating Powder – The Seven-Fragrance Youthful Complexion Powder
Ingredients:
Twelve taels (approx. 444g) of Black Morning Glory Seeds (Hei Qian Niu), four taels (148g) of peeled Soapberry (Zao Jiao), two taels (74g) each of roasted Trichosanthes Root (Chao Tian Hua Fen), Viola (Ling Ling Xiang), Sweet Pine (Gan Song), and White Angelica (Bai Zhi).
Preparation and Usage:
Grind all ingredients into a fine powder and use it as a body or facial scrub when washing.
- Aromatic herbs such as Viola (Ling Ling Xiang) and Sweet Pine (Gan Song) promote circulation and clear pigmentation by stimulating blood flow.
- White Angelica (Bai Zhi) is a fragrant herb known for its ability to brighten the complexion and improve skin texture.
- Trichosanthes Root (Tian Hua Fen) has cooling and anti-inflammatory properties that help treat acne and facial pustules.
- Black Morning Glory Seeds (Hei Qian Niu) have cleansing effects, helping to exfoliate dead skin cells.
Internal Beauty Remedies
In addition to external applications, Xiang Lian Run Se also records internal beauty formulas, such as drinking licorice decoction, red date tea, or wheatgrass juice:
- Licorice (Gan Cao): Detoxifies and enhances qi circulation.
- Red Dates (Hong Zao): Nourishes the blood and improves complexion.
- Fresh Wheatgrass Juice: Cools internal heat, detoxifies, and is rich in chlorophyll, vitamins, and iron, which help prevent inflammation and anemia, leading to a healthier and rosier complexion.
These ancient beauty prescriptions provide valuable insights into traditional Chinese skincare methods and continue to inspire modern beauty practices.